Simon Burstein has come full circle. His latest venture, The Place London, recently opened its third boutique at 26 South Molton Street – part of the original site of Browns, the trailblazing boutique founded by his parents, Joan and Sidney Burstein, in 1970.
Set across three levels, the new store brings together womenswear, Burstein’s menswear label Leathersmith of London, and a mezzanine devoted to its beautifully crafted diaries, journals and stationery.
Launched in 2015 by the former Browns CEO after selling the family business, The Place London champions affordable luxury and independent design from all over the world. Staying true to the family’s spirit of discovery, it has become a go-to destination for emerging talent and timeless pieces with character. It originally opened in Connaught Village before expanding to Paris’s Left Bank – a fitting home for Burstein, who spent some of his early career managing Sonia Rykiel nearby.
Here, he reflects on the evolution of The Place London and his return to the street where it all began…
How does it feel to open a store at the same site as your parents’ original boutique?
I’m excited to be back in the West End where it all began – especially at a time when fashion is so diverse, offering everything from trend-led design to timeless craft. The Place London occupies a unique space, curating beautifully made collections – ethically and accessibly priced – from both renowned and emerging creatives. Although 26 South Molton Street was one of the five connecting stores that made Browns unique, The Place London’s offering and décor is different. It’s a standalone shop with womenswear on the ground and mezzanine and Leathersmith menswear on the lower ground floor with its own entrance leading onto Davies Street.
What is the ethos of The Place London?
Creativity, quality, craftsmanship, timeless style, sustainability and affordability.
Where do you discover the brands you stock?
I do a lot of research and seeking out talent at trade shows. I visit Who’s Next and Premiere Class in Paris, White in Milan and Scoop in London as well as Top Drawer for gifts. We get lots of emails from brands as there are fewer multi-brand stores today. Most of them aren’t suitable for us, but we still have a look.
Where are your favourite places to uncover emerging brands and design talent?
Mainly at trade shows where new labels start. I discovered Mii Collection, one of best womenswear brands, five years ago at Who’s Next when they were just showing scarves. Today they have a full collection which upholds all the values we believe in.
Inside The Place LondonWhat’s new and exciting at The Place London?
More designers are working in India where the craftsmanship is unparalleled, the quality is excellent, and the prices are affordable. Cord is a good example for an Indian brand and Dragon Diffusion has a hit bag made in India.
What are customers buying at the moment?
Our customers love to find new brands that aren’t overdistributed. Mii Collection, Cord and Pierre-Louis Mascia are some of their favourites.
Do you think the way people shop for luxury fashion has changed over the last few years?
Yes. More information on brands, including where and how they sell, gives the customer a good choice to shop both online and in-store.
What are the main challenges for running an independent retail business in the current climate?
We are affordable fashion because small brands don’t do global marketing campaigns like the big brands who are obliged to increase their prices to a crazy level. We are banking on our customers thinking twice about buying a £3,000 bag when they can discover a Zanellato bag that is made in Italy and that has a great quality that retails at £600.
How has this changed since you launched in 2015?
Most of the big brands that have mono stores throughout the world all look all the same. Customers are seeking more individual boutiques that can surprise them. I believe The Place London has achieved this as customers in both our shops in London and Paris tell us this.
How are you feeling ahead of the Autumn Budget?
People are worried about inflation and the cost of living. Fortunately, our customers are privileged but nevertheless happy to find a beautiful hand embroidered blouse by Mii Collection that costs £300.
What changes would you like to see the government implement for independent business owners?
Rents in Mayfair are high, so business rates need to come down. Allowing tourists to reclaim VAT would attract more people to shop in London.
What plans do you have for the store in terms of events and products ahead of the Christmas period?
We plan to do a pre-Christmas event in South Molton Street as we have the most fabulous scarves, diaries and notebooks by Leathersmith, which is also launching a leather pouch in fabulous colours containing a set of playing cards, a pencil and scoring pad.
What future do you see for physical retail, particularly independents, and what are your long terms plans for The Place?
We are storytellers and have to ensure that our designers can remain faithful to their style and at the same time evolve without losing their DNA. Atmosphere and service along with beautiful clothes will always attract an audience – even if they decide to buy online.