Industry “upbeat and optimistic” at Scoop AW23 as popular show returns to Saatchi Gallery

Scoop AW23

Scoop returned to the Saatchi Gallery this week for its AW23 edition, attracting its “highest ever” visitor numbers for an autumn show.

Now in its twenty-second season, the two-day event showcased an exclusive edit of over 250 contemporary womenswear, menswear, accessory and lifestyle collections expertly curated by creative director and founder, Karen Radley. 

Brands at the show included HIGH in collaboration with The Royal Academy of the Arts, Tandem, Hanro, Signal, Les Racines du Ciel, Meme Road, NotShy, BRGN, Ivy Copenhagen, Eberjey, Chelsey Greene, Fringe, Beyond by Vera, Peachaus, Eribe, Gaston Luga, Ines de la Fressange and Transit as well as menswear from North Sails, Jack&Me and Mos Mosh.

Buying teams attended from around the country from indies including Pamela Shiffer, Elizabeth Rose, The Dressing Room, Chloe James Lifetyle, Young Ideas, Cordelia James, Kate Bird, Gemini, Javelin, Jules B, Doyles and McElhinneys.

Among the exhibitors this season was an innovative line-up of gender-neutral designers representing a growing category among retailers. Designers at the show included Dzenda, whose first collection reflects a modern and chic identity that elevates the human body and removes gender boundaries. Creative director Ali Kaptan commented: “Gender neutral is a small but growing sector, and it has been fantastic to be showcased alongside other brands in this market. We chose Scoop to launch our collection and the show has been a great success for us!”

Also popular with retailers were brands that appealed to a younger demographic such as the romantic and whimsical dresses by Amy Jane London. Its eponymous founder commented: “We were drawn to showing at Scoop because of its boutique style and high-end reputation. It has certainly lived up to expectations, the gallery and designers showcased here are beautiful.  It has been a very successful few days for us with a great response from buyers and the other brands we’ve met – it is by far the best show we have been to!”

Pamela Shiffer, founder of London indie Pamela Shiffer, described the show as “beautiful!” She said: “Personally, I think it’s been my favourite to date because we picked up three new brands and there are a lot more we are thinking about. This is exactly the show we need in the UK, a mix of price points and beautifully curated. Well done to the team!”

Commenting on the success, Karen Radley added: “We are closing doors on what has been an immensely successful 22nd season! One of our focuses has been showcasing designers who have chosen Scoop to launch such as ByTimo, Fringe, Cencetak, Amelia Scott, It’s 9pm, Dzenda and many more – and the reaction from buyers to these collection has been incredible. There has been wonderful positivity from retailers on the diverse edit of designers across womenswear, accessories, lingerie and men’s; designers are upbeat and optimistic about the season ahead.”